Oh to have X-ray vision when searching for a sofa! Many of the vital signs of quality (or lack thereof) can be obscured by the siren song of style: alluring upholstery, svelte arms, and come-hither cushions, all piled atop sexy bare or skirted legs. Which isn't to say that a sofa shouldn't be seductive. But if its frame is constructed out of a cheap material, if its joints are weak, springs loose, and cushions flat, your passion for its outer beauty will quickly wane. Choosing the right sofa begins with asking the right questions.
Who will use it? Will it be the first stop for kids after school? Or the anchor of a living room that's just for entertaining? Do you want to sink in or sit up straight? Most people keep their sofas for seven to 10 years; how long do you expect yours to last? With your requirements in mind, peruse the following primer to become familiar with the basics of sofa construction and the questions you should be prepared to throw at your salesperson. Homework done, it's time to have some fun: Plan an outing to your favorite furniture stores bring along a friend or two to help you conduct comfort tests and take your favorite models for a spin.
The Frame
A well-built sofa begins with a sturdy frame made of a kiln-dried hardwood, such as oak, maple, and poplar. Kiln-drying removes moisture, helping guard against warping and cracking. Furniture-grade plywood several layers thicker than the regular sort, for added strength has emerged in the last 10 years to rival hardwood in durability, and costs a little less. Steel, while strong, can't be contoured into elaborate, curved shapes. Other shorter-lived and less pricey materials include conventional plywood and wood-and-plastic composites, which are lightweight and only appropriate for infrequently used sofas and those that won't be kept more than two or three years. How the frame is constructed is as important as the materials from which it's made. High-quality frames are screwed and glued at all the joints, to doubly protect against anything's coming apart. Sofa corners should be reinforced with blocks connected with double dowels or staples and screws. You can't see the blocks for yourself (black fabric covers the sofa's underside), but a salesperson should know if they're there; if not, ask them to consult the manufacturer's catalog. If they don't have one, ask them to order it.
The Suspension System
Your sofa's suspension determines its bounce how quickly it responds to support your weight when you sit on it. The eight-way hand-tied steel-coil system so called because each coil is attached at eight different points to other coils and then the whole system is tied to the frame has long been the Cadillac of these systems. The coils respond to the differing degrees of pressure your body puts on them, giving you what is known as "ride." Generally, the higher the number of coils, the better the ride. Sofas with hand-tied coil suspensions will have higher price tags at least $1,000 to $1,200. An alternative is the drop-in coil system. It comprises a premade armature of coils connected to one another by metal clips, which is inserted into the sofa base. The armature is then fastened to the frame, typically at the corners. Drop-in systems are equally durable as hand-tied systems and may reduce a sofa's price. Sinuous construction (also known as zigzag suspension) is another popular option. It's made by attaching S-shaped or zigzagged steel wires to the frame and stretching them from front to back or top to bottom. It lacks the localized response of a coil system but gives a firm ride that some people prefer, and has less potential for sagging over time. Sometimes zigzag suspension is employed for aesthetic reasons say, when a designer wants a tight, clean-lined seat (the sofa on the story's opening page is built with sinuous construction). Prices for sinuous-construction sofas fall in the same range as those with drop-in systems. When paired with a resilient fabric, high-quality webbing wide strips of elastic fabric tautly woven together has great memory, all but eliminating sagging. The firm ride provides a lot of support, but doesn't allow for much give, so it's probably not the best choice if you fantasize about diving into your sofa every day.
Cushions
As vital as suspension is, other factors must be considered, too. Cushioning separates you from the springs how much you need is up to you. Very often you will have a choice of filling types (look for this information on the hang tag on the cushion).
Sit On It!
Invite a friend along to the store and sit on as many sofas as it takes to get a solid sense of what you find comfortable. Don't be afraid to stretch out and stay a while. "The tush test is the best way to find out what you like. Here are some guidelines.
Get the Feel
Try sitting and reclining in a variety of positions. Does the depth of the sofa's seat feel right (that is, do your feet touch the floor with your knees comfortably bent)? Do you like the angle of the backrest? Lean on the armrests. Are they a comfortable height and width? Can you tuck a pillow into the corner so you can lie down? Ask your shopping partner (and even a salesperson) to hop on, so you can evaluate how the sofa feels with two or more people on it.
Bounce on it
This tells you whether the suspension system is right for you. Is it springy enough? Firm enough? Does it squeak? conduct a lift test Have your partner lift one sofa corner while you hold down the corner diagonally opposite. If the sofa twists or bows, keep looking.
Wiggle It
Grab an arm and try to move it from side to side. Then repeat, holding onto the back. A solid frame should not wiggle. check piping and seams Make sure they're straight and the stitching tight. Patterns should be properly matched and centered; stripes should line up.
Upholstery
More than any other element of your sofa, the upholstery you choose will affect the price you pay. So when selecting a fabric, you'll want to balance considerations of budget, aesthetics, and the material's durability, as measured by the Wyzenbeek test. This diagnostic tool determines the number of rubs a fabric can withstand before fraying--15,000 rubs is very durable, while 30,000 is considered heavy duty. Finding this information may mean contacting the textile manufacturer yourself. Fabrics are also coded for how they can be spot-cleaned: W is for water-based agents; S for chemical solvents; WS for either water or solvent; and X means brush-clean only. Unless your sofa is only for show, stay away from X! Lastly, look for the gold UFAC (Upholstered Furniture Action Council) logo, also printed on the hang tag, which indicates the fabric's compliance with UFAC's fire-safety guidelines.
Now, having been well schooled in the lore of sofa construction, collect your dimensions, toss a tape measure and a digital camera into your bag--along with the fabric swatches and paint chips you want to match--and head out. Rest assured: Having armed yourself with the knowledge gained here, chances are slim that shopping for a sofa will send you to the couch.
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